Showing posts with label Pest Updates. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pest Updates. Show all posts
Monday, March 18, 2013
Asian Needle Ants Push Into The Carolinas
http://www.newsobserver.com/2013/03/17/2751050/make-way-for-6-legged-samurai.html#storylink=misearch
Ground Nesting Bees, by Mike Waldvogel
You may start getting complaints from folks at some of your schools where people see either small mounds of soil in the ground or report "swarms" of bees showing up. People often panic because they think these are swarms that pose a health risk to the children. However, they are most likely the solitary bees, such as the "colletids" and "andrenids," that often emerge at this time of year.
The bees begin foraging for food and seeking out new nesting sites. This activity will continue for about the next two months depending on the area of the state and the species of bees. They dig vertical tunnels in the soil on which they make small side chambers where they provision pollen for their offspring. These bees are "solitary," which means there is not a true colony. A lot of the "swarming" that you see are males and females attempting to pair up and mate. The bees frequently make small mounds in the soil, often where the soil is loose and vegetation may be sparse. It is not uncommon to see clusters of these nests but each mound is made by an individual queen which does the work without the help of workers as occurs in a honey bee nest.
Although the damage can be unsightly with large numbers of mounds in the ground, it is mostly a cosmetic issue. The bigger problem is usually that people walking by panic because they assume that these are swarms of honey bees (or a similar bee) that will likely attack them if they venture too close to "the nest." Turf-nesting bees can sting but rarely do so, since they are not "social" and there is no nest that a large number of worker bees are trying to protect. There is no "mass attack" as might occasionally occur with a close encounter of the yellowjacket kind (and it's still early in the year for us to see any yellowjacket colonies out there).
These bees are beneficial and should be left alone if possible. If one of your schools wants something done, you can apply almost anything that you typically use outdoors for perimeter treatments (be sure to follow proper notification procedures). One problem is that the bees often try to dig into the sand in play areas at schools. Of course, parents and teachers are concerned about stinging incidents particularly if a child (or teacher) is hypersensitive to bee stings. In those instances, I still strongly discourage any chemical treatment, particularly in sandy play areas where kids come into direct contact with the soil (and which they might get in their mouths as well). However, facility managers have to weigh the safety of children (and staff) and the misinterpretation by the public of ignoring the problem as meaning they lack concern about the children.
If the bees try to nest in a sandbox, a simple solution is to cover it during the day, but it will take a few weeks for you to deter most of the bees that show up over time. While the tarping approach isn't
always successful, wider areas can be saturated with plain or soapy water which will bring the bees out. Since soap will work as an insecticide to some extent, it may kill some of the bees in the process but I still consider this preferable over the use of conventional insecticides IF people are unwilling to simply ignore the problem. The water-logged soils will hopefully deter the bees but again we're looking at activity that can take place over a few weeks.
Information, including pictures, of these bees and the "damage" that they cause can be found at:
The bees begin foraging for food and seeking out new nesting sites. This activity will continue for about the next two months depending on the area of the state and the species of bees. They dig vertical tunnels in the soil on which they make small side chambers where they provision pollen for their offspring. These bees are "solitary," which means there is not a true colony. A lot of the "swarming" that you see are males and females attempting to pair up and mate. The bees frequently make small mounds in the soil, often where the soil is loose and vegetation may be sparse. It is not uncommon to see clusters of these nests but each mound is made by an individual queen which does the work without the help of workers as occurs in a honey bee nest.
Although the damage can be unsightly with large numbers of mounds in the ground, it is mostly a cosmetic issue. The bigger problem is usually that people walking by panic because they assume that these are swarms of honey bees (or a similar bee) that will likely attack them if they venture too close to "the nest." Turf-nesting bees can sting but rarely do so, since they are not "social" and there is no nest that a large number of worker bees are trying to protect. There is no "mass attack" as might occasionally occur with a close encounter of the yellowjacket kind (and it's still early in the year for us to see any yellowjacket colonies out there).
These bees are beneficial and should be left alone if possible. If one of your schools wants something done, you can apply almost anything that you typically use outdoors for perimeter treatments (be sure to follow proper notification procedures). One problem is that the bees often try to dig into the sand in play areas at schools. Of course, parents and teachers are concerned about stinging incidents particularly if a child (or teacher) is hypersensitive to bee stings. In those instances, I still strongly discourage any chemical treatment, particularly in sandy play areas where kids come into direct contact with the soil (and which they might get in their mouths as well). However, facility managers have to weigh the safety of children (and staff) and the misinterpretation by the public of ignoring the problem as meaning they lack concern about the children.
If the bees try to nest in a sandbox, a simple solution is to cover it during the day, but it will take a few weeks for you to deter most of the bees that show up over time. While the tarping approach isn't
always successful, wider areas can be saturated with plain or soapy water which will bring the bees out. Since soap will work as an insecticide to some extent, it may kill some of the bees in the process but I still consider this preferable over the use of conventional insecticides IF people are unwilling to simply ignore the problem. The water-logged soils will hopefully deter the bees but again we're looking at activity that can take place over a few weeks.
Information, including pictures, of these bees and the "damage" that they cause can be found at:
Wednesday, February 29, 2012
Termite Swarms in School Buildings
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If you have indoor swarmers, just suck them up in a vacuum cleaner. Place the vacuum bag inside a plastic bag and seal it before disposing of it. There is no real need to spray them, and spraying would require notification. There is also no need to rush treating the building. This situation would not be considered an emergency. Plan the treatment for a teacher workday where that part of the building is or can be vacated. The treatment will vary depending on where the termites were found swarming. A spot treatment may be all that is needed and will not be as expensive as a full treatment of the structure.
Monday, October 3, 2011
Cool Weather Brings Not-So-Cool Pest Problems
By Mike Waldvogel and Patricia Alder
Fire Ants
Moist soils and warm weather have made conditions suitable for fire ant mounds to pop up in various places. If one of your schools has fire ants in a location that poses an imminent hazard to the students and/or staff, then a mound drench may be the best course of action. If there is concern about children coming into contact with the chemical, you can flatten the mound after it's been treated and the chemical has soaked down below the soil surface. Untreated soil can then be placed on top of the treated area. Your best best, however, is to treat the mound after school hours when children are not around, if possible. If the mounds are in less critical areas, then baiting may be a good option. Apply the bait according to label directions. Sprinkle the recommended amount around each mound (not on top of the mound itself). It is best to apply the bait in early morning or early evening, when most of the colony is closer to the soil surface.
It's also important to remember that your options for treatment are often limited by the target site of application. For that reason, Steve Bambara, recently retired Extension Specialist from NCSU, developed a program that you can use to select fire ant products based on application site and application preference (e.g., liquids vs. baits vs. granular insecticides). The program is accessible online: http://insects.ncsu.edu/fireant-products.
Also, check out our fact sheets about fire ants:
Kudzu Bugs
Kudzu bug (Photo: Phillip Roberts, Univ. of GA.) |
This is a relatively new pest that feeds on kudzu (but not enough to wipe it out). Unfortunately, it also favors soybeans and some other legumes where it has actually caused yield losses. Kudzu bugs are 4 - 6 mm long, somewhat oblong in shape, and olive-green colored with brown speckles. So far this year, it's been found in over 55 counties on kudzu and soybeans. The kudzu bug can be a significant nuisance when temperatures drop and days grow shorter. Like another well-known nuisance, the Asian lady beetle, the kudzu bug has the habit of invading structures while it seeks out somewhere to pass the winter. We've already heard of some complaints in Union County where the bugs have invaded homes. This has mostly been rural areas with homes adjacent to soybean fields (and likely some kudzu). If you have schools in rural areas near soybean fields and/or kudzu, then there is a chance that you may see the kudzu bug. Unfortunately, there is no real effective chemical control to stop the invasion. For more information about the kudzu bug, check out this fact sheet: http://insects.ncsu.edu/Urban/kudzubug.htm.
Multi-colored Asian Ladybird Beetles
Multi-colored Asian ladybird beetle (Photo: Bill Ree, Texas A&M Univ.) |
Most of us have probably encountered this insect by now. Adult multi-colored Asian ladybird beetles are convex in shape and about 1/4” long. Specimens from higher elevations are larger than those from the Piedmont and Coastal Plains. There are usually ten black spots on each forewing, but some have fewer spots or faded spots and some have no spots at all.
As temperatures start to drop in the fall, adult beetles begin to search for suitable overwintering sites. They tend to congregate on the sunnier or warmer sides of buildings, or on exposed, light-colored buildings. Of course, this doesn’t mean that buildings with dark-colored siding or brick buildings are immune to the lady beetle assault. On warm winter days, the beetles may become active and move towards light or bright surfaces. They are often found on windows, light fixtures and ceilings.
Ladybird beetles are primarily a nuisance. They do not eat wood or furniture. However, the beetles may stain fabric and painted surfaces if squashed. In addition, there have been concerns that large numbers of beetles may possibly cause air quality problems indoors that could trigger allergies and/or asthmatic reactions.
While it is not 100% effective, preventing the beetles from entering structures is one of the best long-term approaches for dealing with ladybird beetles. Install tight-fitting sweeps on exterior doors and weather stripping around door frames. Openings where utility pipes and wires enter the foundation and siding should be sealed. Make sure that window screens are in good condition. Indoor sprays tend to be ineffective against ladybird beetles. Invading beetles should simply be vacuumed up. The vacuum bag should be sealed up and disposed of. Outdoors, a residual spray insecticide applied around windows, doors, eaves, soffits, attic vents, etc. may provide temporary relief.
For more information on ladybird beetles, click here:
Brown marmorated stink bug
Brown marmorated stink bug (Photo: David R. Lance, USDA) |
The brown marmorated stink bug was first detected in North Carolina in the Winston-Salem area in 2009. Adult brown marmorated stink bugs are slightly larger than 1/2” and vary in color from brown to gray. Adults have characteristic brown and white bands on the outer edge of the thorax, and white and brown banding on their antennae.
In the fall, adult brown marmorated stink bugs aggregate on and inside structures in search of an overwintering sites. The bugs can give off a characteristic odor if they are crushed or disturbed.
Just as with ladybird beetles, exclusion goes a long way in preventing brown marmorated stink bug invasions. Make sure exterior doors have tight-fitting sweeps, seal openings where utility pipes and wires enter the foundation, and make sure window screens are in good condition. The use of pesticides indoors for controlling the brown marmorated stink bug is not warranted; invading stink bugs should be removed with a vacuum cleaner. Outdoors, a residual spray applied around windows, doors, soffits, attic vents, and other potential entry points may provide some relief.
For more information on the brown marmorated stink bug, check out our fact sheet:
Paper Wasps
Treatment of a paper wasp nest (Photo: Patty Alder, NCSU) |
Adult paper wasps are about ¾” to 1” long and reddish brown to dark brown in color with yellow stripes on the abdomen. Paper wasp colonies are annual; workers die off in the fall and only inseminated queens survive. The surviving queens are often seen hovering around chimneys and rooflines as they search for a suitable place to spend the winter. On warm winter days, the queens may become active.
Wasps that get indoors can be controlled mechanically, by swatting or vacuuming, or with an aerosol insecticide. Openings through which wasps can enter the structure should be caulked or sealed. If a paper was nest poses a hazard, use a Wasp & Hornet spray that will propel the insecticide about 10-15 feet and direct the spray into the nest opening for 5-10 seconds. The best time to treat a nest is at dusk, when most of the wasps are in the nest.
Wasps that get indoors can be controlled mechanically, by swatting or vacuuming, or with an aerosol insecticide. Openings through which wasps can enter the structure should be caulked or sealed. If a paper was nest poses a hazard, use a Wasp & Hornet spray that will propel the insecticide about 10-15 feet and direct the spray into the nest opening for 5-10 seconds. The best time to treat a nest is at dusk, when most of the wasps are in the nest.
More information about paper wasps can be found here: http://insects.ncsu.edu/Urban/paperwasp.htm.
Snakes
Fall is also the time when our no-legged friends start seeking out shelter. Most of the snakes that people encounter are black rat snakes. Juvenile black rat snakes have distinct color patterns that immediately send people into a frenzy because they believe it's a copperhead. Although black rats can bite, they are more inclined to move away from a fight. As leaves start to drop, it's not unusual for the snakes to go unnoticed in leaf piles, under debris and under logs. Startled snakes will strike and bite. Copperhead bites are not typically fatal, but the bite can land you in the emergency room and potentially an overnight stay in the hospital. Obviously, children, the elderly, and other folks who might have health-related issues are more likely to have the more severe reactions to a bite. So, it's certainly nothing to take lightly, especially in school settings where there are lots of children around. The secret to avoiding encounters with snakes? Limit potential snake hiding places. And keep children away from potential snake harborage areas. Don't allow piles of leaves, sticks, logs, etc. to collect in areas children frequent (e.g., playgrounds, around sidewalks, etc.). Do what you can to keep snakes out of buildings - make sure all exterior doors have door sweeps and make sure doors aren't kept propped open.
Friday, August 26, 2011
Storm-related Pests
With Hurricane Irene headed to the NC coast, expect the possibility of an increase in pest problems following the storm. For a brief look at some pest problems you may encounter and ways to manage some of these pests after the storm, please click HERE.
Monday, August 22, 2011
Kudzu Bug Update
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| Kudzu bug (Photo: Phillip Roberts, Univ. of GA) |
When cooler weather finally shows up, we usually expect to see boxelder bugs and Asian lady beetles moving indoors. Most of you have probably read about two other pests that exhibit the same behavior.
Those of you in school districts in the northern counties will probably see the infamous brown marmorated stink bug. At the other end of the state, we have the 'kudzu bug' (Megacopta cribraria), which feeds on both kudzu and soybeans. As soybeans mature and dry out, the bugs will likely make their move to nearby areas, including schools.
The following link will show you the latest (August 2011) distribution map for the kudzu bug:
This doesn't mean you will definitely run into the kudzu bug, but this is a good time to plan ahead. Make sure you and other school staff are aware of the pest. Dr. Dan Suiter at the University of Georgia has a publication about this pest:
http://www.caes.uga.edu/applications/publications/files/pdf/C%20991_1.PDF
If you see either the kudzu bug or the brown marmorated stink bug, please email Mike Waldvogel (mike_waldvogel@ncsu.edu) or Patty Alder (patricia_alder@ncsu.edu).
http://www.caes.uga.edu/applications/publications/files/pdf/C%20991_1.PDF
If you see either the kudzu bug or the brown marmorated stink bug, please email Mike Waldvogel (mike_waldvogel@ncsu.edu) or Patty Alder (patricia_alder@ncsu.edu).
Wednesday, August 3, 2011
RAIN IS A WELCOME TO MANY PESTS, TOO!
Termites
The recent rains have triggered termite swarms. We have recently seen three distinct swarms in Umstead State Park in Raleigh, NC. Most of the swarming activity that is occurring now takes place outdoors, which is simply a reminder that termites are around us outdoors. It's a good reminder to all of us that if any of your school buildings haven't been inspected for termites in a number of years, this might be a good time to get it done.
For those school systems that conduct their pest control in-house, we recommend that you look carefully for termite shelter ("mud") tubes on exterior foundation walls. For buildings with crawlspaces, check the wood along the top of the foundation (in the interior crawlspace), looking carefully for tubes and/or damage. This often means pulling back insulation in some areas to inspect. Be sure to inspect any “critical areas” for termite evidence. These areas include places where plumbing and other utility conduits penetrate slabs/foundations, cracks in foundations, areas around door and window frames, and areas prone to moisture problems.
If your school system contracts with a pest control company, your other option is to have them inspect the school buildings. There is a lot of confusion about what pest control companies can/cannot tell their customers. If there is no evidence of termite activity, a pest control inspector cannot tell someone that they "need" to have a structure treated. On the other hand, if it's been 10+ years since the structure was last treated, then the company might "suggest" a treatment as a way of protecting a major investment. But ultimately, the decision about whether or not to have a building treated for termites is up to your school system.
In instances where people have termite contracts with pest control companies, some companies have a clause in their contract that allows them to require retreatment of a structure after some interval (usually 5 years). This clause applies whether or not there are signs of termite activity. So, the advice is simple and the same as any other contract you sign - READ IT CAREFULLY.
Mosquitoes
The rains will also leave behind water sources that can produce mosquitoes. While puddles of water will dry up, the major concern will be for items that may be present on school property: buckets, flower pots with dishes underneath, tarps covering items, and even tree holes. Remember to "Tip and Toss" - tip the item to drain the water and toss the items that aren't needed.
Fire Ants
Also, if you live in an area where fire ants are a problem, don't be surprised if you see mounds popping up. We've seen this same situation where dry summer conditions reduce surface activity but significant rainfall often affords the ants the opportunity to form mounds from what was previously very hard-packed soils.
Friday, May 6, 2011
Periodical Cicadas Emerging
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| Figure 1. Adult periodical cicada (Photo: David McKeithan) |
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| Figure 2. Newly molted periodical cicada (Photo: David McKeithan) |
Cicadas are relatively large insects with transparent wings held roof-like over the body (Fig. 1). Some species of cicadas show up every year, but the periodical cicadas show up in certain areas every 13 or 17 years. After spending all those years living in the soil, from depths of two to twenty-four inches, mature nymphs emerge from about a one-half inch diameter hole in the ground. Nymphs crawl a foot or more up tree trunks or other vertical surfaces where adults emerge leaving their nymphal skins behind. The newly emerged adult is soft and white for some time (Fig. 2) before the exoskeleton hardens and becomes darker (Fig. 3).
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| Figure 3. Adult periodical cicadas (Photo: David McKeithan) |
Mated females cause damage to the twigs of deciduous trees on which they lay their eggs (Fig. 4). Twigs slit by the female's ovipositor will frequently have leaves that wilt and die. This damage to the twigs may cause some of them to die, but the injury is usually inconsequential. Eggs hatch 6 to 8 weeks, at which time the young larvae burrow into the soil where they will spend the next 13 or 17 years, depending on the species.
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| Periodical cicada damage to twig (Photo: Tim Tigner, VA Dept of Forestry) |
The use of insecticides in school settings for cicadas is usually not necessary or practical. The damage done to healthy trees is minimal. Trees and shrubs that are vulnerable (i.e, young or newly planted) may be covered with a covered with a mesh cloth to prevent the females from laying eggs.
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