The only hint given last week was that this little critter was, in fact, an insect (because it has three pairs of legs). No one had any good guesses - and I have to admit - this was a tough one!
So, now to reveal the mystery - drum roll please..... this little critter is a firefly (or lightning bug) larva! Who knew a firefly larva was so strange looking!
We all know that adult fireflies "light up" - they emit light that we enjoy watching on hot summer nights. For many of us, spotting and catching fireflies is one of our favorite summertime memories.
Fireflies use their lights to talk to each other. Adults emit light mostly to attract mates, but they may also use their light to defend their territory and keep predators away. In some firefly species, only one sex lights up. In most, however, both sexes emit light. Male fireflies flash their abdomens in species-specific patterns, hoping to attract the attention of a female hiding in the grass. An interested female will return the pattern, helping guide the male to her in the darkness. Firefly light patterns will vary in frequency and length, and are species-specific. In addition, the height at which they emit their light while in flight will vary depending on the species. Pretty cool, huh? One other interesting fact about fireflies - they are actually beetles!
Firefly larva (Photo by Jasja Dekker)
So, we all know adult fireflies emit lights, but did you know that firefly larvae also light up? But why do the larvae glow? What purpose does it serve? Light emitting serves a different function in larvae than it does in adults. It appears to be a warning signal to predators since many firefly larvae contain chemicals that are distasteful or toxic.
Firefly larvae live on the ground, under bark, and in other moist places. They eat earthworms, snails and slugs. Larvae may also scavenge on certain small dead animals and other organic material. They have sickle-shaped mandibles with which they can inject a kind of chemical that paralyzes their prey and helps digest it.
Check out this amazing video below to see a firefly larva glowing:
Another mystery creature this week! Take a look at the photo below and take a guess at what type of critter this is. Here's a tidbit that might help narrow things down: insects have just three pair of legs. So, this mystery insect is, in fact, an insect and not a creature closely related to an insect. The answer will be revealed next week!
In an effort to reduce the potential for runoff and drift that can result from applications of pyrethroids, the EPA has revised the “Environmental Hazard Statements” and general “Directions for Use” sections for pyrethroid non-agricultural outdoor products. Pyrethroids include pesticide products such as “Talstar” (bifrenthin), “Tempo” (cyfluthrin), “Suspend” (deltamethrin), and others. The EPA revisions also apply to “combination products” such as: “Temprid SC,” and “Transport WDG and “Transport ME.” The new requirements also apply to consumer end pyrethroid-containing pesticides, such as “Ortho Home Defense Max” (bifenthrin), Bayer Advance Home Pest Control (cyfluthrin), and others.
The new environmental hazard statements are specific for different formulations (i.e., liquid, dust, granular, and ready-to-use products). The general “Directions for Use” included in this labeling initiative are considered to be best management and good stewardship practices.
Let's take a look at some of the new changes:
Requirements for Granular Formulations labeled or intended for outdoor residential uses:
o“Apply this product directly to the lawn or garden area. Water treated area as directed on this label. Do not water to the point of run-off.”
o“Do not make applications during rain.”
Requirements for Liquid, Dust, and Ready-to-Use Formulations products labeled or intended for outdoor residential uses:
o“Do not water the treated area to the point of run-off.”
o“Do not make applications during rain.”
Additional Application Restrictions For General Outdoor Surface and Space Sprays, except for outdoor fogging devices:
o“All outdoor applications must be limited to spot or crack-and-crevice treatments only, except for the following permitted uses:
(1) Treatment to soil or vegetation around structures;
(2) Applications to lawns, turf, and other vegetation;
(3) Applications to building foundations, up to a maximum height of 3 ft.
Other than applications to building foundations, all outdoor applications to impervious surfaces such as sidewalks, driveways, patios, porches and structural surfaces (such as windows, doors, and eaves) are limited to spot and crack-and-crevice applications only.”
Although the label changes do not apply to turf (such as athletic fields), these new label changes will affect the way you conduct pest management using pyrethroids. The one restriction that will probably impact your usual pest management techniques the most is the limitation of structural sprays to impervious surfaces. If you need to do a perimeter treatment, you are still allowed to apply the product up the foundation wall (to a maximum height of 3 feet) and on the soil and vegetation around the building. The major change applies to outdoor applications to impervious surfaces like sidewalks, driveways, windows, doors, and eaves. For example, in an area where a driveway meets a garage door (such as at an athletic or maintenance facility), you are limited to either a spot treatment (an area no larger than 2 square feet) or a crack-and-crevice treatment in that area because both areas (the garage door and the driveway) are considered impervious surfaces.
Most likely, if you're applying an exterior perimeter spray, you're dealing with a pest like ants, millipedes, ladybird beetles, or another equally persistent pest. In those cases, a crack-and-crevice application to those impervious structural surfaces like garage doors, windows, eaves, etc., will provide the most benefit anyway, as those areas are often points of entry for these pests. So, here's the good news: if you follow the new label requirements, you'll be using the product in a more efficient manner and the potential for runoff will be reduced. A win-win situation!
The term "green" has become a big buzz-word in the pest management industry. So what exactly is a green or natural pesticide? Green or natural pesticides are pesticides derived from substances found in nature. These may include pesticides derived from inorganic minerals - like boric acid, limestone, and diatomaceous earth - as well as pesticides derived from botanicals, such as pyrethrum and limonene. Today, more than ever, people are concerned about the impacts traditional, synthetic pesticides may have on the environment. So it's easy to see why people want to use green pesticides. In addition, many of the green or natural pesticides are classified by EPA has Category IV pesticides. Category IV pesticides are exempt from notification. This makes green pesticides attractive for use in school settings.
What you need to know is that while many green "spray" pesticides work on contact, they have little to no effect once they dry. In other words, they don't persist in the environment for very long; that's part of what makes them "environmentally friendly!" So if you're using a natural or green spray pesticide, for best results, you need to spray the bug directly. This is okay if you're dealing with an occasional cricket, ant, or other insect that wonders in. But in some cases, you may need to use a pesticide that persists a little longer.
Some of the naturally derived dusts, such as boric acid and diatomaceous earth, do have a long-lasting effect (if they are not displaced after application). But NEVER use pool grade diatomaceous earth; it is an inhalation hazard and should only be used for swimming pools. To be sure you're using the right product, only use pesticides registered with the EPA. And you should always use caution when applying dusts. Follow the label instructions carefully and always wear gloves and a dust mask. Indoors, dusts should be applied in cracks & crevices and voids, NOT along baseboards or other open places. Many dusts can be applied outdoors as well, but again, follow the label instructions. To avoid drift, never apply dust in windy conditions.
Many of the synthetic pesticides also have longer residual activity. There are certain instances when it's necessary to use a pesticide that will persist in the environment for some time. For example, with pests like cockroaches, which spend most of their time hiding in cracks and crevices, a longer-lasting pesticide will most likely be necessary. After all, how can you spray roaches directly with a green pesticide if you never see them?
Really, it's a delicate balancing act. So, here's my advice when it comes to using pesticides, whether it be green or synthetic (really, it's just using IPM):
First, take steps to eliminate potential food and water sources, limit harborage areas, and pest-proof buildings to keep pests out.
Use insect baits preferentially over other pest management products (when dealing with roaches and ants).
"Green" spray insecticides can be used as contact sprays to apply directly to insects.
"Green" insecticidal dusts can be used in cracks & crevices and voids. Always apply dust in a thin, even manner - don't dump it in piles - insects will actually avoid piles of dust.
If you deem it's necessary to use a conventional, synthetic pesticide, ALWAYS read and follow the label instructions carefully. Try to limit your applications to cracks & crevices and avoid broadcast applications indoors (remember, crack and crevice applications are also exempt from notification). This will limit the potential risk of exposure to students and staff.
In general, green pesticides are less toxic than conventional, synthetic pesticides. But as with ANY pesticide, green pesticides can be toxic if not used properly. Just because the active ingredient is "all natural," it's not okay to use more or in areas not listed on the label. Always read and follow label instructions, regardless of what type of pesticide you choose.
The National Pest Management Association estimates that rodents invade nearly 21 million homes in the United States each winter. This winter will probably be no exception. Cooler temperatures are in our not-so-distant future. You don't have to share your home with rodents this winter! Following are some simple steps you can take to help prevent these pests from setting up shop in your space.
Store susceptible food items in airtight glass or plastic containers.
Items such as bird seed, grass seed, etc. should also be stored in airtight plastic containers as well.
Dispose of garbage regularly.
Store garbage properly - in trash cans with lids that fit properly and close tightly.
Reduce clutter, both indoors and outdoors, to remove potential harborage areas.
Store items such as clothing, blankets, etc. in plastic sealable containers rather than in cardboard boxes.
Store firewood at least 20 feet away from the foundation of the home and 5 feet off the ground, if possible.
Remove piles of rubbish, trash, boxes or other debris.
If possible, keep dense ground cover or other vegetation at least 12" away from the foundation.
Seal holes and other openings 1/4" in diameter or larger around the exterior of your home, including areas where utility pipes enter the home. Depending on the size of the opening, caulk, copper mesh, screen, or metal sheets can be used to seal openings.
Install or replace missing weather stripping around exterior doors.
Make sure attic and crawlspace vents are screened and that screens are in good repair.
This week's insect is a mystery! Take a look at the amazing images below by Alex Wild (http://www.alexanderwild.com) and see if you can figure out what the mystery insect is (all photos shown are the same type of insect). We'll have the answer in next week's "Insect of the Week" posting. Following the photos are a few hints!
The tube-like insect on the right is the insect in question!
Helpful Hints:
These insects have complete metamorphosis.
They taste, smell, and feel with the hairs that cover their bodies.
These insects vomit on food before eating it, so as to soften the meal up.
This insect may have sponging, lapping, or piercing mouthparts, depending on the species.
They walk on smooth surfaces using sticky soft pads that act like glue.
And here's the giveaway: This insect has only two wings as an adult; the hindwing has been reduced to small knobs, called halteres (see last image above).
Think you’re an ant expert? Quiz yourself with these quirky questions about some of our favorite insect friends. The answers may surprise you!
(True/False) Most ants are pests.
(True/False) All ants have nests.
(True/False) There is an Argentine ant colony right now with billions of workers that spans nearly 4,000 miles.
(True/False) Ant workers are both male and female.
(True/False) Smaller ants never grow up to be bigger ants in the colony.
Which of the following is an effective home remedy for killing fire ants? (A) dumping grits on the nest; or (B) dumping a pot of boiling water on the nest
Time to check your super ant knowledge!
Question 1: Most ants are pests.
This is false! In fact, most ants are NOT pests! Of the more than 30,000 ant species in existence worldwide, fewer than 100 of them are pest species. And in North Carolina alone, fewer than a dozen of the over 250 known species are pest species.
What do all of the other ant species do? Ants are a valuable part of our ecosystem. Because they fill so many jobs, from predators and scavengers to plant protectors, they play a central role in maintaining the ecological balance and biodiversity present in our natural world.
Aphaenogaster carolinensis (Photo: Alex Wild, alexanderwild.com).
Some ants, like a group in North Carolina called Aphaenogaster, are responsible for planting seeds in the forest floor. Many seeds have evolved a tasty outer layer that ants love to snack on. After they remove this delicious shell, the ants plant the seeds in the ground. Without Aphaenogaster and ants like them, we would be missing a lot of our forest herbs.
Ants also protect plants from harmful insects and even aerate the soil as they dig out their nests. It has been estimated that ants turn more soil than earthworms!
Question 2: All ants have nests.
This is also false! African driver ants and army ants do not have nests. These restless wanderers travel around without stopping, eating everything in sight. When the driver ants come through villages in Africa, residents pack up all their things and move out, allowing the ants to clean up after them. Check out the video below to see army ants in action!
Question 3: There is an Argentine ant colony right now with billions of workers that spans nearly 4,000 miles.
It’s true! Argentine ants are little brown ants that look a lot like odorous house ants, also known as sugar ants, which are pretty common around here. Unlike odorous house ants, Argentine ants don’t fight each other, which allows them to form tremendous colonies called supercolonies like the one that spans nearly 4,000 miles of the Mediterranean coastline. We have a couple of supercolonies in North Carolina, too! Although they don’t sting, these miniature marauders are ruthless and can wipe out native ant populations when they move in. As we learned from question 1, we need our native ants!
Question 4: Ant workers are both male and female.
False! All ant workers are females. Ant colonies have a female queen and female workers. Colonies only produce males once or twice a year. However, males don’t do any work. Their only purpose is to eat and mate (sound familiar, anyone?). After mating season is over, the female workers take girl power to a whole new level by either kicking the males out into the cold or eating them.
Fire ants range in size from 2-6mm. Nests typically contain workers in a range of sizes
(Photo: Texas A&M Univ.)
Question 5: Smaller ants never grow up to be bigger ants in the colony.
It’s true! Although some colonies have workers of many different sizes, the littlest ones are fully grown. That’s because ants have something called complete metamorphosis. That means they’re like butterflies, flies, and beetles in how they develop from egg to adult. Just how a beetle baby is a grub, an ant baby is a grub-like larva. Ants pupate like butterflies and moths do, too. After they pupate, they emerge as fully grown ants.
Question 6: Which of the following is an effective home remedy for killing fire ants? (A) dumping grits on the nest; or (B) dumping a pot of boiling water on the nest.
The answer is B. A lot of people have tried dumping grits on a fire ant nest, but it just doesn’t work. First of all, as many North Carolinians can attest to, grits aren’t poisonous! Second of all, ants have tiny waists and can’t process grits by themselves.
Even so, some people insist they’ve poured grits on fire ant nests and come back to find the fire ants all gone. This could happen, as fire ants move around frequently and don’t like people tampering with their nests. However, it’s important to note that these fire ants just moved; they were not killed by the grits.
Dumping boiling water over the nest can put a swift end to fire ant mounds. This is because the scalding water boils the ants alive. Adding a little detergent to the water can increase effectiveness, too! The water must be boiling, however. Fire ants are used to flooding and can make rafts out of workers. If the water is not hot enough to kill them, they can just float away.
Using boiling water to treat a fire ant nest does have its limitations. First, you've got to get the boiling water outside to the nest without scalding yourself. Second, the boiling water can actually damage and/or kill any vegetation that's around the treated area. So, while it does work, boiling water is not always the most practical way to treat a fire ant nest.
