tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23642582709351740302023-11-16T09:40:53.421-08:00IPM in NC Schools and Childcare FacilitiesThis blog discusses the use of Integrated Pest Management (IPM) in North Carolina Schools and Childcare Facilities. With IPM, pests are controlled safely and effectively, and there is a reduction in exposure of children to pesticides.Patty Alderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13886225438789586220noreply@blogger.comBlogger63125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2364258270935174030.post-12649956002363991722016-03-16T03:18:00.000-07:002016-03-16T03:24:22.584-07:00Dr. Mike Waldvogel Receives the IPM Award<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A big congratulations to Dr. Mike Waldvogel! </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">He received the the 2016 Southern Region IPM Center "Friends of IPM – IPM Educator" award. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This award is given to individuals or groups to recognize successful outreach and education programs that facilitate the implementation of Integrated Pest Management (IPM). Mike was recognized in an award ceremony at the Southeastern Branch ESA meeting in Raleigh, NC on March 15, 2016.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Dr. Waldvogel Mike is an Extension Specialist and Extension Associate Professor with NCSU's Department of Entomology.</span></div>
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Patty Alderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13886225438789586220noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2364258270935174030.post-13394476153957628852016-01-15T14:00:00.000-08:002016-01-15T14:00:13.495-08:00Final Rule Will Clarify and Improve the Transparency of Ingredients in Minimum Risk Pesticide Products<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Environmental Protection Agency has published a rule to clarify the substances on the minimum risk pesticide ingredient list and the way ingredients are identified on product labels. Minimum risk pesticides are a special class of pesticides that are not required to be registered with EPA because their ingredients, both active and inert, pose little to no risk to human health or the environment. The Agency is reorganizing these lists and adding specific chemical identifiers to make clearer to manufacturers, the public, and federal, state, and tribal inspectors the specific ingredients that are permitted in minimum risk pesticide products. EPA is also requiring producer contact information and the use of specific common chemical names in lists of ingredients on minimum risk pesticide product labels.<br /><br />EPA’s revisions to the exemption, announced in a December 28, 2015, Federal Register notice, do not alter the substance of the minimum risk pesticide ingredient lists, but more accurately describe which chemical substances can be used in pesticide products that are exempt from federal pesticide registration requirements. State enforcement agencies have expressed support for the changes.<br /><br />EPA believes the industry – manufacturers of these products and businesses considering entering the market for minimum risk pesticides – will benefit from clearer guidance. Consumers will benefit from the clearer information on which chemicals the products contain. <br /><br />To view the final rule, go to: <a href="http://www.regulations.gov/#!documentDetail;D=EPA-HQ-OPP-2010-0305-0047">EPA-HQ-OPP-2010-0305-0047</a></span>Patty Alderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13886225438789586220noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2364258270935174030.post-18501992057499670412015-08-24T12:57:00.004-07:002015-08-24T12:59:02.829-07:00Insecticide Resistant Lice <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0cpOjY8W8n1_R2vyid3DDWacHkPhZDkdUfNwpNaMCVKn9gih8s5tcemKTUE1JCiNn9hKnKFFUU4ga-RmDiSD-lGNyFOHwTRH83dgi29tU1on149EXXwyf8t4Vx7bkqYK-NP80NVGFTwLn/s1600/istock_000007763269_medium.jpg__800x600_q85_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0cpOjY8W8n1_R2vyid3DDWacHkPhZDkdUfNwpNaMCVKn9gih8s5tcemKTUE1JCiNn9hKnKFFUU4ga-RmDiSD-lGNyFOHwTRH83dgi29tU1on149EXXwyf8t4Vx7bkqYK-NP80NVGFTwLn/s320/istock_000007763269_medium.jpg__800x600_q85_crop.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Head lice move across a nit comb. (Kevin Dyer/iStock)</td></tr>
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The new school year is often accompanied by increased reports of head lice. And according to a new paper delivered at the American Chemical Society and reported last week in <a href="http://www.smithsonianmag.com/science-nature/lice-can-resist-drugs-have-infested-half-states-us-180956308/?no-ist">Smithsonian.com</a>, this year’s head lice may be a bit more problematic.<br />
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In the paper, North Carolina is among 25 states shown to have head louse populations that are resistant to the most commonly used head louse shampoo treatments, including pyrethrins and the pyrethroid insecticide permethrin. In 104 out of 109 lice populations already analyzed, the authors found high levels of gene mutations that make lice indifferent to these over-the-counter treatments. The team is still analyzing data from the other 25 states.<br />
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Researcher Kyong Sup Yoon, lead author of the study, points out that "Just one louse that manages to survive a pyrethroid treatment can live for up to a month and lay five eggs a day. Multiply that by an elementary school, a community, and soon you’ve got plenty of resistant lice.”<br />
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The good news is that there is no reason to panic. There are new, non-pyrethroid options available through your doctor. These products will likely be more expensive, however. <br />
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Regardless of what product you use, pay careful attention to head inspection and combing after treatment. Using two methods (insecticide plus combing) is almost always better than one method when it comes to controlling lice.Patty Alderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13886225438789586220noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2364258270935174030.post-1128203336388222382015-07-27T13:55:00.000-07:002015-07-27T13:55:11.145-07:00Why Cockroaches Die on Their Backs<div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica;"><span style="font-size: 12px;">Below is a link to an article featuring Dr. Coby Schal with NCSU's Department of Entomology.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Coby Schal is a professor of entomology at </span></div>
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http://www.newsobserver.com/news/technology/article27927940.htmlPatty Alderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13886225438789586220noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2364258270935174030.post-90212485878022435582015-07-02T06:24:00.004-07:002015-07-02T06:24:51.063-07:00What's That Smell? The True Odor of the Odorous House Ant<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">When talking to folks about the odorous house ant, you’ve probably told them that the ant smells like rotten coconut when it’s crushed, after which they inevitably give you a “look” – one that tells you they think it’s disgusting that you readily squish ants! </span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />While the freshly crushed odorous house ant does produce a definite odor, describing it as “rotten coconut” never said a lot to me, namely because I have never smelled a rotten coconut! I have always thought the odorous house ant produced a clean smell, almost like glass cleaner, with more of a “punch.” </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In an effort to provide more accurate information on just how the odorous house ant smells, Clint Penick and Adrian Smith conducted a recent study investigating the volatile compounds released by the odorous house ant and the items most commonly associated with their scent. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgafuC4vN14I2LmzKyUTxs9MIWljyMCCS1z7irCTN60GOvpHtBlGW_rrBzcOXYtFefbqZCqgrnz-wVCbRVu1Yy6TXNLMT9fEgIXfOnr-3bfcqDPUGoC6kCx8ZAnJ-6OhWOt9uj6a4llHBo/s1600/OHA2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgafuC4vN14I2LmzKyUTxs9MIWljyMCCS1z7irCTN60GOvpHtBlGW_rrBzcOXYtFefbqZCqgrnz-wVCbRVu1Yy6TXNLMT9fEgIXfOnr-3bfcqDPUGoC6kCx8ZAnJ-6OhWOt9uj6a4llHBo/s320/OHA2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The vast majority of online sources identify the odor of the odorous house ant as “coconut-like” (Fig. 1A). This ran counter to the results of a smell test that Penick and Smith conducted as part of their study. In the smell test, participants most identified the smell of a freshly crushed odorous house ant as “blue cheese,” followed by “other” as a close second (Fig. 1B). The most common write-in candidate for “other” was cleaning spray (very similar to way I have always described the smell of odorous house ants!).</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgapdBoUyNJd_NMJ0q3dVS46De4xgrgbr0jm7irnZ5CozGSQToV8MtCirykeWOiEaUvYToSTep9XykkX6umiyProMa4Duc9InK5k2ghGuq1jgO9PfH1QYtc58U14Qm5Ompvk8WaqQgbOkM/s1600/OHA1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgapdBoUyNJd_NMJ0q3dVS46De4xgrgbr0jm7irnZ5CozGSQToV8MtCirykeWOiEaUvYToSTep9XykkX6umiyProMa4Duc9InK5k2ghGuq1jgO9PfH1QYtc58U14Qm5Ompvk8WaqQgbOkM/s320/OHA1.jpg" width="232" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />When Penick and Smith also used gas chromatography-mass spectrometry to determine the exact chemical composition of the odorous house ant scent. They found that the major component of the odorous house ant scent was a methyl ketone (Fig. 2) that has actually been identified in other ant species as well. As in turns out, the most prominent compounds associated with blue cheese are also methyl ketones. No methyl ketones were found in fresh coconut. Once coconut turned rotten, however, it released the same methyl ketones found in blue cheese. Interestingly, the microbes that turn coconut oil rancid – Penicillium mold – are the very same microbes used to make blue cheese!<br /><br />So, what exactly IS that smell? According to Penick and Smith’s results, the odorous house ant odor points to blue cheese, with a cautious nod to rotten coconut. They emphasized cautious because it’s not the “coconut” in rotten coconut that smells like the odorous house ant, but the “rotten.” To sum up, odorous house ants do not smell like coconuts. They smell like blue cheese. Or you could say that they smell like coconuts that have been colonized by Penicillium mold that causes the coconut oil to produce an odor similar to blue cheese.</span></div>
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Patty Alderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13886225438789586220noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2364258270935174030.post-91153784912939560962015-06-23T08:44:00.001-07:002015-06-23T08:44:36.823-07:00EPA Publishes Proposal To Mitigate Exposure to Bees From Acutely Toxic Pesticide Products; Notice of Availability<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">On Friday May 29, the EPA published a proposal to mitigate exposure to managed bees from pesticide products from foliar applications. The EPA’s proposal would prohibit the foliar application of acutely toxic products (neonicotinoids) during bloom for locations with bees on-site and under contract. Current neonicotinoid product labels contain a 48 hour notice exception, which will be removed from the label. This proposal was detailed in the President’s National Strategy to Promote the Health of Honey Bees and Other Pollinators released last week. The proposal is very limited to foliar applications when managed pollinators are on the property under contract. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;"><br /></span><span style="color: #4787ff; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; text-decoration: underline;">https://www.federalregister.gov/articles/2015/05/29/2015-12989/proposal-to-mitigate-exposure-to-bees-from-acutely-toxic-pesticide-products-notice-of-availability</span>Patty Alderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13886225438789586220noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2364258270935174030.post-33024096040716694842014-12-16T08:48:00.004-08:002014-12-16T08:48:57.913-08:00How Could IPM Have Helped?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">San Ysidro School District, San Diego, California is battling an unresolved lawsuit over alleged pesticide use, incurring $35,000 in legal costs as of last month. According to media reports, in 2011, teacher Josie Hamada took her students to a cherry tree grove on school property to draw and write about trees. After clearing some weeds, Hamada found herself contaminated with a blue substance which she suspected was a pesticide. Students were quickly moved inside to wash up. Health complaints followed, including at least one student’s trip to a hospital the next day.</span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />School officials report that no pesticide had been applied by district staff or contractors, and claimed that notices are posted for every scheduled application. The district had also sent out 5,000 notices to parents asking if they wanted to receive individual notification when the school applied pesticides; only three parents responded.<br /></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Media reports indicate the cherry trees were planted as a memorial to September 11, 2001 victims. It’s unclear from the news stories if the blue substance was confirmed to be a pesticide, however an informed IPM coordinator might have suggested a lower maintenance alternative before the trees were planted. Cherry trees, much like apple, crabapple, dogwood and birches, are “key plants”, prone to insect and disease problems. In most environments, cherry trees and other key plants require interventions, including pesticide applications, to keep them healthy and attractive. Fruit trees also typically shed some of the crop throughout the growing season, which can provide a food and moisture source for rodents, flies, yellow jackets and other potential pests. Weeds can also be a challenge to manage. Barrier fabric and mulch can be a solution, but can also provide harborage for rodents, and requires ongoing maintenance to be effective. To real the full story, <a href="http://www.nbcsandiego.com/news/local/San-Ysidro-School-District-Pesticides-Lawsuit-162477656.html">click here</a>.<br /></span><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3nyx901M1jpscJOVo5nYSCoYL952-9hT4F40taJxCPriG-9IJYdt2bsZxW0rPkgXejkxvIaIiweAfcSsmN6qM4DyiizJDv2mnVWRrCIQevZE4MhQh9eyuzXX9p3E8WqH5PbLVsA5X3_uM/s1600/Untitled.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3nyx901M1jpscJOVo5nYSCoYL952-9hT4F40taJxCPriG-9IJYdt2bsZxW0rPkgXejkxvIaIiweAfcSsmN6qM4DyiizJDv2mnVWRrCIQevZE4MhQh9eyuzXX9p3E8WqH5PbLVsA5X3_uM/s1600/Untitled.jpg" height="200" width="148" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Red imported fire ant mound<br />(Jake Farnum, Bugwood.org)</span><!--EndFragment--></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In Texas, a student died at Has Middle School
in Corpus Christi following an allergic reaction to fire ant stings he received
on a football field. While the district has some IPM tactics in place, their IPM
practices for fire ant management were not complete. The coaching staff was not
trained to recognize the signs of anaphylactic shock. Knowing when and how to inspect a field for
fire ants and how to apply baits effectively are key to fire ant management. </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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According to Janet Hurley, Extension Program Specialist, Texas A&M AgriLife Extension, “Your objective should be to find the method or methods that are most cost-effective, environmentally sound and fit your tolerance level for fire ants.” AgriLife Extension worked with the school IPM staff to develop a district-wide fire ant baiting program. One year later the district has reported fewer fire ant complaints and reduced cost with a broadcast bait program rather than treating individual mounds, which is time intensive, can require more pesticide use, and does nothing to manage fire ants foraging from mounds on adjoining property. Properly timed bait applications can be entirely consumed by foraging ants within hours, limiting potential for exposure to the bait. The district also adopted a policy to train all staff on how to recognize anaphylaxis and how to properly respond to an allergic reaction to both pests and food-borne allergies. Read the full story <a href="http://abcnews.go.com/Health/texas-boy-dead-fire-ant-bites/story?id=20271333">here</a>. To learn more about fire ants and IPM visit <a href="http://fireant.tamu.edu/files/2014/03/ENTO_017.pdf">Fire Ants and the Texas IPM in Schools Program</a>.</span></div>
Patty Alderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13886225438789586220noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2364258270935174030.post-13610266685146764642014-03-17T09:28:00.004-07:002014-03-17T09:36:58.144-07:00Ground Bees Active But Pose No Threaten to People or Yards, by Steve Frank, NCSU Extension Entomologist <span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As I write this my front yard is abuzz with small bees. Many are flying around just above the ground while others fly back and forth to redbuds and camellias gathering pollen.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Although these bees do not generally sting, I watch as mothers nervously cross the street with strollers. Neighbors pass by and comment "Watch out for all those fire ants" referring to the small mounds that dot my sparsely vegetated lawn. Others offer suggestions on how to rid myself of these dangerous beasts that are "tearing up your lawn."</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The bees I am watching are ground nesting bees in the family Andrenidae. All the species in this family are solitary and nest in the ground. Solitary means they do not maintain vast hives with hundreds of workers like honeybees or yellow jackets. A single female bee builds the nest by burrowing into the ground. She prepares larval cells where eggs will be laid. Mothers provision each brood cell with a mixture of pollen and nectar (called bee bread) that serves as food for young larvae. After laying an egg she closes the brood cell and starts another. After completing several brood cells the mother will seal the entrance and leave the nest to begin a new nest. After a few weeks she will die leaving the next generation safe in the ground.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Bee emerging from its mound (Photo: S.D. Frank).</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In the spring, bees complete development and emerge as adults that dig their way out of the ground and forage for pollen and nectar to provision their own nests (see photo above). The visual spectacle of these bees is produced largely by males who swarm over nests trying to mate with newly emerged females. The other noticeable aspect of these bees is the small mounds of dirt excavated for each nest.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Hundreds of small mounds created by bees.</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Hundreds of small mounds and swarms of bees often trigger calls to exterminators or landscape professionals (see photo at right). Homeowners fear that they will be attacked and stung as they bend over to pick up the paper and they believe that the bees are actively damaging their yard and want them gone. This is not the case.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">An ovipositor is the organ female insects use to insert eggs into substrates such as leaves, wood, soil, other insects, or in our case brood cells. In social insects such as honeybees, most of the females are workers that do not mate or lay eggs and thus have no need for an ovipositor. However, they do need to protect the nest from invaders. Therefore, the ovipositor of these social species has evolved into a stinger to ward off threats.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">With this in mind it is easy to understand why the threat of being stung by the ground nesting bees in my yard is so small. First, the bees swarming around are mostly males. Males don't lay eggs and thus do not have an ovipositor, modified or otherwise. The female bees are responsible for all aspects of nest construction and provisioning and are busy digging and foraging. Since the ovipositor of ground nesting bees is necessary for laying eggs, it is not well developed as a stinger, if at all. I won't say that you will never be stung because this would encourage some fool to torment bees until they proved me wrong. However, I have handled these bees quite a bit and have never been stung (see photo below).</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhxc8KghYZ1odhdx4_484RL5Li_N-tHhxhtJUj-hW9K8C_BljtPJHWPvKJthMBuuDagetcRR7753mLXPzOgdswAoxaoQn6jh4o69d2IELiKXvat14-6gkzhpxh69tUsnCRsEZUsr3zTasB/s1600/image003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhxc8KghYZ1odhdx4_484RL5Li_N-tHhxhtJUj-hW9K8C_BljtPJHWPvKJthMBuuDagetcRR7753mLXPzOgdswAoxaoQn6jh4o69d2IELiKXvat14-6gkzhpxh69tUsnCRsEZUsr3zTasB/s1600/image003.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; text-align: start;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Bee held safely for a portrait (Photo: S.D. Frank).</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">These bees prefer to nest in dry, sparsely vegetating areas. Therefore, if you have bees nesting in your lawn it is because the grass is thin and the soil is dry. The bees don't make it this way, they just take advantage of the conditions. If anything the bees are providing a valuable service by aerating the lawn!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The behavior and habitat preference of these bees leads us to the most promising ways to reduce their abundance in a particular yard. First they like dry soil they can dig nests in. Therefore, irrigation over the 3-4 weeks bees are active will encourage them to find other nest sites and reduce their abundance the following year. In addition, they like thin lawns with plenty of bare spots. Thus, you can take measures to improve the density of your grass to make it less appealing to bees. Native bees are an important part of ecosystems and food production. We should take steps to protect these bees or at least use non-lethal means to encourage them to nest somewhere else.</span></div>
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Patty Alderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13886225438789586220noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2364258270935174030.post-23330601628196027582014-03-05T12:02:00.000-08:002014-03-05T12:02:00.479-08:00Termites SwarmingWe are already starting to get reports of termites swarming. Just last week, we had termites swarm in a building on NCSU campus. You may have already experienced some swarms in some of your buildings. Eastern subterranean termites generally swarm from late-February to May. Swarming usually occurs during the day, particularly on warm days following rain. Swarms occurring outdoors near tree stumps, landscape timbers, etc., are not an indication that a structure is infested, but simply serve as a reminder that termites live around us. However, when swarming occurs indoors, it usually means that there is an infestation somewhere in the building.<br /><br />If you have an indoor swarm, simply suck up the swarmers in a vacuum cleaner. Place the vacuum bag inside a plastic bag and seal it before disposing of it. There is no real need to spray them; plus spraying in this situation would require notification. There is also no need to rush treating the building. This situation would not be considered an emergency. Plan the treatment for a teacher workday or holiday when that part of the building is or can be vacated. The treatment will vary depending on where the termites were found swarming. A spot treatment may be all that is needed and will not be as expensive as a full treatment of the structure.Patty Alderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13886225438789586220noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2364258270935174030.post-11299117404664881792014-02-05T06:46:00.000-08:002014-02-05T06:46:00.886-08:00New brochure on IPM for Schools and Child Care Facilities<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Tahoma, Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, san-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 20px;">A collaborative effort between NCSU, Texas A&M and Syngenta has produced this new IPM publication - "An Ounce of Prevention!" covering IPM for Schools and Child Care Facilities. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Tahoma, Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, san-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 20px;"><br /></span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Tahoma, Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, san-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 20px;"><a href="http://schoolipm.ncsu.edu/documents/An%20Ounce%20of%20Prevention.pdf">"AN OUNCE OF PREVENTION" Brochure</a></span>Patty Alderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13886225438789586220noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2364258270935174030.post-35364541530295843742013-11-04T07:03:00.004-08:002013-11-04T07:05:54.179-08:00Proper Use and Maintenance of Insect Light Traps<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">If maintained and used properly, insect light traps (ILTs) can be very effective at both capturing and monitoring for flies. ILTs allow for easy identification, because generally, intact flies are preserved in the sticky traps. The following maintenance and use tips will help ensure your ILTs are working to the best of their ability: <br /><br /> <b>Light Trap Location.</b> Location and proper positioning are main factors in successful light trap usage: </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">Install light traps on the same wall as entryways, </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">if possible (Photo: Mike Waldvogel, NCSU)</span></td></tr>
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<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Install traps either on the same wall as the entryway (see photo at left), or on a nearby perpendicular wall. The attractant light should not be seen from the outside to avoid attracting outdoor flies.</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Avoid other light sources that could potentially compete with the trap. Try to avoid placing ILTs in brightly lit areas, if possible.</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Insects need to be able to see the light, so make sure that there is nothing placed in front of the ILT that would substantially block the light.</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">For day-flying insects like house flies, install wall-mount or corner-mount light traps low.</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Ceiling-hung traps work better for night fliers like stored product moths.</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Install ILTs along the path to stored or processed food. Narrow hallways are good installation sites. ILTs are most effective where flying insects are funneled into narrow spaces.</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">In food-processing areas, place ILTs so as to draw insects away from the food. Do not install ILTs over exposed food or near food prep surfaces.</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Place open tube electrocuting traps near back doors that lead to garbage areas and dumpsters but are not near food or customers. </span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">To capture <i>Drosophila</i> (fruit flies), place an ILT that contains a sticky board low behind counters or behind beverage or salad bars.</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Place ILTs in drop ceilings or attics to trap overwintering flies, such as cluster flies.</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Don’t place ILTs near air blowers or in areas where there are strong air currents. </span></li>
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<b>Light Trap Maintenance.</b> Be sure to dust off the lamps and the guard door on a regular basis. Use a wire brush to remove insects from the grid. The lamps, reflector and grid should be periodically washed with warm, soapy water. Inspect the trap for signs of electrical problems like damaged wires, cracked insulators, scorched transformers or loose electrical connections. Most ILTs will automatically turn off the electricity when the trap is opened for inspection or maintenance. However, it may be necessary to unplug the unit before cleaning.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />Many ILTs use glue boards rather than a collection tray. Glue boards that are dusty or full of debris and insects will not be ineffective and should be changed. Even if the glue boards are clean and empty, they can dry out over time. Check the manufacturer’s recommendations for replacement of the glue board. <br /><br />Most manufacturers recommend that lamps be replaced at least annually. The effective life of a lamp is about 7,000 hours or 9½ months of use. Even if the light appears alright, it may no longer attract insects. It’s good practice to replace the lamp in the spring to ensure they are most effective during peak season. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Collection trays should be emptied and cleaned regularly. Dead insects left in the collection tray may attract dermestid beetles, so don’t wait until it’s full of insects to empty the tray. A small paint brush can be used to brush insect parts out of the catch tray and other parts of the trap. <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><br /></span><br /><b>Examine the catch.</b> Examine traps regularly. An increase in trap catch or the appearance of a new pest may indicate a developing pest problem somewhere in the building. <br /><br /><b>Use and promote IPM.</b> Fly management will get an extra boost if other pest control strategies, such as exclusion and sanitation, are integrated with ILTs. Discuss with and educate your customers about the issues that may be contributing to a fly problem. Provide recommendations for minimizing these conditions. In addition, take advantage of any opportunities for some up-selling. For example, you might recommend the use of fly fans (air curtains) and/or vinyl strips at exterior doors and loading docks. </span><br />
<br />Patty Alderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13886225438789586220noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2364258270935174030.post-1866114190704905692013-09-17T08:19:00.001-07:002013-09-17T08:21:04.264-07:00Kudzu Bugs on the Move Again<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Kudzu bugs aggregating on structure searching for </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">overwintering </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">sites </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">(Photo: Dan Suiter, Univ. of Georgia)</span></td></tr>
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Kudzu bugs will soon be moving out of soybean fields, which means you may begin seeing them aggregating on or inside structures, including homes and schools. The kudzu bug's fall movementindoors is very similar to what we've experienced since the 1990’s with the Asian lady beetle. The major difference between the two insects is that the Asian lady beetle is actually beneficial as a biological control agent because it feeds on aphids and other plant-feeding insects. By contrast, the kudzu bug's primary food source (aside from kudzu) happens to be field crops, such as soybeans, where they can significantly impact yield. The kudzu bugs fondness for soybeans is one reason why we could see significant numbers of them invading homes and other buildings, even in rural areas. In more urban areas, there are plenty of other hosts, such as wisteria and privet. The insects are quite mobile; they are able to catch rides on wind currents, as well as automobiles, trucks, trains, and planes. This helps explain why this pest has managed to spread in about 4 years from the north-central Georgia to most of South Carolina, North Carolina, and on into Virginia (plus west into Mississippi). <br />
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At this point, we still do not have anything new to report in terms of recommendations as to how to address this problem. Kudzu bugs are attracted to light-colored surfaces but that certainly doesn't mean that brick buildings or those with dark-colored siding will escape the bug invasion. While shortcuts and easy solutions would be nice, there simply aren't any. <br />
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The emphasis still has to be on exclusion because chemical control is only partially effective and relies primarily on targeting the insects that are aggregating on surfaces. Preventive sprays are not recommended because they simply won't be durable enough to last the weeks during which these insects will be actively seeking overwintering sites. If you feel a treatment is required, stick with targeted treatments of critical areas: windows and doorframes, soffits, and eaves. If you choose to treat using a pyrethroid insecticide, remember to follow new label requirements. For the latest label changes, visit: <a href="http://www.epa.gov/oppsrrd1/reevaluation/environmental-hazard-statment.html">http://www.epa.gov/oppsrrd1/reevaluation/environmental-hazard-statment.html</a>. <br />
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For more information about the kudzu bug, please visit our website: <a href="http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/Urban/kudzubug.htm">http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/Urban/kudzubug.htm</a>
<!--EndFragment-->Patty Alderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13886225438789586220noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2364258270935174030.post-57864201755746423352013-05-24T06:27:00.002-07:002013-05-24T06:27:09.546-07:00Cockroaches Quickly Lose Sweet Tooth To Survivehttp://www.wral.com/cockroaches-quickly-lose-sweet-tooth-to-survive/12478379/Patty Alderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13886225438789586220noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2364258270935174030.post-45847061318731298742013-04-11T12:07:00.003-07:002013-04-11T12:08:24.520-07:00Paper Wasps Showing Up<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
Paper wasps (Polistes sp.) are long-legged, reddish brown to black insects with slender spindle-shaped abdomens. They may have differing degrees of yellowish or brown striping. Paper wasps can become a problem in the fall as the inseminated queens invade homes in search of overwintering sites. But paper wasps can also become a problem in the spring. As temperatures begin to climb, queens that spent the winter in structures become active and fly about. If they have been resting in an attic, wall void or crawlspace, the wasps may be attracted to light coming through a gap in the baseboard or a wall fixture, or around an AC vent and emerge inside the building. Since there are no nests or young to defend, the only real danger of being stung is from accidentally stepping on or pressing against one.</div>
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<b>Figure 1.</b> Use an aerosol insecticide </div>
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<i>Control. </i>Queens that are found indoors may simply be swatted or vacuumed. If a queen does manage to get outdoors and start a nest, a broom may be all that is needed to knock it down. If a wasp nest has had some time to grow and is considered to be a hazard, they are most easily destroyed in the evening with an aerosol insecticide that is labeled for "hornets or wasps" (see Figure 1). This type of treatment may be considered an emergency (especially if the nest is located in place likely to be encountered) which means application to the nest can be made as long as notification occurs within 72 hours of application.</div>
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Patty Alderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13886225438789586220noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2364258270935174030.post-82113577871766844732013-03-18T16:21:00.001-07:002013-03-18T16:33:45.655-07:00Asian Needle Ants Push Into The Carolinas <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"><a href="http://www.newsobserver.com/2013/03/17/2751050/make-way-for-6-legged-samurai.html#storylink=misearch" style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline;">http://www.newsobserver.com/2013/03/17/2751050/make-way-for-6-legged-samurai.html#storylink=misearch</a></span>Patty Alderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13886225438789586220noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2364258270935174030.post-71701480924548695482013-03-18T09:38:00.001-07:002013-03-18T16:33:31.894-07:00Ground Nesting Bees, by Mike WaldvogelYou may start getting complaints from folks at some of your schools where people see either small mounds of soil in the ground or report "swarms" of bees showing up. People often panic because they think these are swarms that pose a health risk to the children. However, they are most likely the solitary bees, such as the "colletids" and "andrenids," that often emerge at this time of year.<br />
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The bees begin foraging for food and seeking out new nesting sites. This activity will continue for about the next two months depending on the area of the state and the species of bees. They dig vertical tunnels in the soil on which they make small side chambers where they provision pollen for their offspring. These bees are "solitary," which means there is not a true colony. A lot of the "swarming" that you see are males and females attempting to pair up and mate. The bees frequently make small mounds in the soil, often where the soil is loose and vegetation may be sparse. It is not uncommon to see clusters of these nests but each mound is made by an individual queen which does the work without the help of workers as occurs in a honey bee nest.<br />
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Although the damage can be unsightly with large numbers of mounds in the ground, it is mostly a cosmetic issue. The bigger problem is usually that people walking by panic because they assume that these are swarms of honey bees (or a similar bee) that will likely attack them if they venture too close to "the nest." Turf-nesting bees can sting but rarely do so, since they are not "social" and there is no nest that a large number of worker bees are trying to protect. There is no "mass attack" as might occasionally occur with a close encounter of the yellowjacket kind (and it's still early in the year for us to see any yellowjacket colonies out there).<br />
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These bees are beneficial and should be left alone if possible. If one of your schools wants something done, you can apply almost anything that you typically use outdoors for perimeter treatments (be sure to follow proper notification procedures). One problem is that the bees often try to dig into the sand in play areas at schools. Of course, parents and teachers are concerned about stinging incidents particularly if a child (or teacher) is hypersensitive to bee stings. In those instances, I still strongly discourage any chemical treatment, particularly in sandy play areas where kids come into direct contact with the soil (and which they might get in their mouths as well). However, facility managers have to weigh the safety of children (and staff) and the misinterpretation by the public of ignoring the problem as meaning they lack concern about the children.<br />
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If the bees try to nest in a sandbox, a simple solution is to cover it during the day, but it will take a few weeks for you to deter most of the bees that show up over time. While the tarping approach isn't<br />
always successful, wider areas can be saturated with plain or soapy water which will bring the bees out. Since soap will work as an insecticide to some extent, it may kill some of the bees in the process but I still consider this preferable over the use of conventional insecticides IF people are unwilling to simply ignore the problem. The water-logged soils will hopefully deter the bees but again we're looking at activity that can take place over a few weeks.<br />
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Information, including pictures, of these bees and the "damage" that they cause can be found at:<br />
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<a href="http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/Insects/O&T/lawn/note100/note100.html">http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/Insects/O&T/lawn/note100/note100.html</a></div>
Patty Alderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13886225438789586220noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2364258270935174030.post-60012364114972790722013-02-25T06:21:00.001-08:002013-02-25T06:23:02.096-08:00Structural Pest Workshops - Week of March 4th<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">The NC Pest Management Association is offering structural pest workshops during the week of March 4th. One CCU in P-Phase and one CCU in W-Phase will be offered. The cost for the workshop is $5 for NCPMA members and $25 for non-members. The workshop schedule can be found by visiting the NCPMA website: </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.ncpestmanagement.org/">http://www.ncpestmanagement.org/</a></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">. Click on the link for "Spring Workshops".</span></div>
Patty Alderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13886225438789586220noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2364258270935174030.post-3553390099056856092012-10-18T08:40:00.004-07:002012-10-18T08:51:30.906-07:00Making Sense of the Notification Requirements for School IPMWe get a lot of questions from maintenance directors, school IPM coordinators, and other school personnel regarding proper notification procedures for school IPM. Following is a set of “Frequently Asked Questions,” which can also be found on our website (http://schoolipm.ncsu.edu), which may help clear up any uncertainties. <br />
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<b>When did the notification requirement become effective? </b><br />
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All public schools were required to begin the notification process effective October 1, 2006. <br />
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<b>Who must be notified? </b><br />
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Schools are required to notify the parents/guardians of school children, as well as the teachers and other staff in their school system. <br />
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<b>Who is responsible for notifying the parents, guardians, and staff at a particular school (or facility) about pesticide applications? </b><br />
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The school principal (or site director) or the principal’s/director’s designee is responsible for the notification process. Some school districts may designate the maintenance director or IPM coordinator to handle the notifications.<br />
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<b>How often must parents/guardians and school staff be notified? </b><br />
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All parents, guardians, and staff must receive notification once a year (annually) for all scheduled pesticide applications. Most schools send this notification out at the beginning of each school year. Part of the annual notification should include a section informing parents, teachers, and staff of their right to receive 72-hour advance notice of any unscheduled pesticide applications using a non-exempt pesticide or non-exempt method of application. <br />
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<b>Must every parent, guardian, and school staff be notified of pesticide applications at every site in the school system? </b><br />
<br />
At a minimum, parents and guardians must be notified about school buildings, grounds, and sites where their children attend. They may also request notification for any other site(s) of concern to them. Similarly, staff members must be notified for the facility (or facilities) where they work and for any other sites of concern to them. <br />
<br />
<div>
<b>Are schools required to post notices in areas of a school/building when it is scheduled to be treated?</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
No. At this time, the School Children’s Health Act does not require that schools post notices in areas of school property that may be treated during routine pest control services. <br />
<br />
<b>What pesticides, formulations, or application methods are exempted from notification? </b><br />
<b><br /></b>
Self-contained baits (such as cockroach bait stations snf ant bait stations), disinfectants, biological cleansers, and pesticides applied to cracks and crevices (i.e., not to exposed surfaces). In addition, all formulations and application methods for products classified by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as Toxicity Category IV pesticides (i.e., pesticides that do not require “Caution” signal word on the product label) are exempted from notification. <br />
<br />
<b>Does the notification requirement apply when we use products purchased at local retail stores?</b><br />
<b> </b><br />
Yes. Notification is required for all non-exempt products (and non-exempt application methods), regardless of whether you use professional products or those available to the general public at retail stores. <br />
<br />
<b>Are we required to notify parents and staff about herbicide treatments to football fields or other areas of school? </b> <br />
<br />
Yes, herbicide treatments (both granular and liquid formulations) on school grounds are subject to the notification requirements.<br />
<br />
<b>Where does the principal or principal’s designee obtain the information for pesticide use notification purposes? </b><br />
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
The superintendent is required to designate an IPM coordinator for the entire school district. Principals can get pesticide use information from the school district’s IPM coordinators. If your school district does not yet have a designated IPM coordinator, contact the facilities or maintenance director for pesticide use information. <br />
<br />
<b>Where can I find sample notification letters or forms? </b><br />
<b><br /></b>
Sample notification forms are available at the <a href="http://schoolipm.ncsu.edu/resources.htm.">NCSU School IPM website</a> resource page.<br />
<br />
Four sample forms are available: Sample Annual Notification form, Sample Request for Notification form, Sample Emergency Notification form, and Sample Non-exempted Pesticide Application form. <br />
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>How does the principal determine who wants the 72-hour advance notification? </b><br />
<b><br /></b>
The annual notice (Sample Annual Notification form) should be accompanied by instructions for requesting 72-hour advance notification (Request for Advance Pesticide Use Notification form) for non-exempt pesticide applications. The principal (or designee) can then prepare a registry of names and contact information of parents, guardians, and staff requesting the advance notification for future use. Some school districts may find it easier to notify every parent, guardian, and staff member about a non-exempt unscheduled pesticide application any time that one occurs at their school/facility. The advantage of this approach is that it eliminates the need to keep track of who has requested advance notification. This is a matter that your school board may wish to address in formulating its IPM policy. <br />
<br />
Note: If no one requests notification of unscheduled pesticide applications, then the school is not obligated to send out notices other than the annual notice. <br />
<br />
<b>Is there a specific method of notifying parents, guardians, and staff about pesticide applications?</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
There is no required method for notifying parents, guardians, and staff about pesticide applications. Annual notifications can be distributed along with other routine information that is distributed at the beginning of the school year. The 72-hour advance notice may pose more of a challenge. In many cases, school districts already have an effective means of notifying parents, teachers and staff about time-sensitive issues. Here are some examples of methods through which schools can notify parents, guardians and staff: <br />
<ul>
<li>Voice-mail: Many schools now use voicemail notification systems to leave messages for parents and staff </li>
<li>Email/text messages to parents and guardians </li>
<li>Bulletin boards: Written notices posted on school bulletin boards (for annual notification rather than as the primary means for unscheduled/emergency applications) </li>
<li>Individual notices (primarily for staff) through inter-office mail, e-mails, and in-house PA/TV announcements </li>
<li>Websites: Pesticide use information can be posted on school websites, although there is no guarantee that users will check the site in a timely manner for specific pesticide applications. The sample notification forms, list of pesticides, MSDS & labels, and other relevant information can also be posted on the website for easy access. </li>
<li>Student-Parent Handbook: Pesticide notification information can be included in school documents (this could be used for annual notification) </li>
<li>Employee Handbooks: Pesticide notification information can be included in school documents </li>
</ul>
<b>If we follow all the notification guidelines and the 72-hour advance notification, can the parents, guardians or staff who receive advance notification prevent the school from applying the pesticides? </b> <br />
<br />
If a pesticide treatment is deemed necessary, then schools should work with the parents, guardians, and staff to provide alternate arrangements such as allowing the student or employee to remain home or work elsewhere around the timeframe when the treatment is made. Or the school may try to postpone the treatment to a date when the building will be closed for an extended period of time (for example, a weekend or holiday). Note: Except for true emergencies, rarely is there a need for a non-exempt treatment to take place during school hours. In many cases, an exempt product/application method can be done as a temporary measure. Regardless of the situation, most pesticide labels require (or at least recommend) that the room/area be unoccupied during and immediately after the treatment. <br />
<b><br />Is notification required for a members of a visiting school attending a sporting or other event or for private athletics organizations (such as youth football or little league baseball groups) using the school’s facilities? </b><br />
<br />
No. Because these groups are not sponsored by the local school, the school is not obligated to notify them of the pesticide applications but can do so as a courtesy or general policy. <br />
<b><br />Do the notification requirements also apply to staff at non-school administrative sites? </b><br />
<br />
Yes. The School Children’s Health Act covers all school district property. As such staff at all school district sites, whether they work in a school or an administrative building must be notified accordingly when pesticides will be applied in their workplace. <br />
<br />
<b>Should parents, guardians and staff be notified in summer when students are not at the school site? </b><br />
<b><br /></b>
Parents and guardians do not need to be notified in summer, unless the students are using the buildings, fields or facilities for normal academic instruction (summer school or year-round instruction), or for school-sponsored or organized extracurricular activities. However, staff working year-round in the schools or locations must be notified. <br />
<br />
<br />
We hope this set of “Frequently Asked Questions” helps clarify the procedures for notification in schools. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact Patty Alder at patricia_alder@ncsu.edu.</div>
Patty Alderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13886225438789586220noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2364258270935174030.post-60732588352542672362012-09-27T10:08:00.002-07:002012-09-27T10:08:43.451-07:00Kudzu Bugs
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">We've had two reports (Scotland
County and Union County) that kudzu bugs are moving out of soybean fields and
congregating on structures, including schools and school buses. This move out
of host plants was anticipated but perhaps not this soon. As to why it's
happening now is pure speculation, but favorable weather, particularly early
this year, likely contributed to this early exodus as the adult bugs head into
reproductive diapause.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">The kudzu bug's fall movement indoors
is very similar to what we've experienced since the 1990’s with the Asian lady
beetle. The major difference between the two insects is that the Asian lady
beetle is actually beneficial as a biological control agent, chomping down on
aphids and other plant-feeding insects. By contrast, the kudzu bug's primary
food source (aside from kudzu) happens to be field crops, such as soybeans,
where they can significantly impact yield. So, this pest packs a double-whammy
for North Carolinians.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">The kudzu bugs’ fondness of soybeans
is one reason why we could see significant numbers of them invading schools and
other buildings, even in rural areas. In more urban areas, there are plenty of
other hosts such as wisteria and privet. The insects are quite mobile; they are
capable of catching rides on wind currents, automobiles, trucks, trains and
planes. This helps explain why this pest has managed to spread in from north-central
Georgia and through most of South Carolina, North Carolina, and Virginia (plus
west into Mississippi) in just about 3 years time.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">At this point, we still do not have
anything new to report in terms of recommendations as to how you might address
this problem. Kudzu bugs are attracted to light-colored surfaces but that
certainly doesn't mean that brick buildings or those with dark-colored siding
will escape the bug invasion. While people are going to want shortcuts and easy
solutions, there simply aren't any. The emphasis still has to be on exclusion
because chemical control is still only partially effective and relies primarily
on directly targeting the insects that are aggregating on surfaces. Preventive
sprays are not recommended - because they simply won't be durable enough to
last the weeks during which these insects will be actively seeking
overwintering sites.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">If the problem is severe and you decide that pesticides are
warranted, focus your applications around window frames and doorframes. If you
use a pyrethroid for your treatment, don’t forget about the new label
restrictions. The new label restrictions specify </span><span style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">that other than applications to
building foundations (which may be treated up to a maximum height of 3 feet),
all outdoor applications to impervious surfaces (i.e., windows, doors, siding,
sidewalks, patios, etc.) are limited to <u>spot and crack-and-crevice
applications</u> only. Remember, a crack-and-crevice treatment is defined as
the </span><span style="color: black; font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">application of small amounts of insecticide to cracks and crevices
in which insects hide or through which they may enter a building. Because crack-and-crevice
applications are considered exempt, notification would not be required. A spot
treatment is defined as pesticide application to limited areas (an area not
exceeding 2 square feet) on which insects are likely to occur. Spot treatments
are not considered exempt – so be sure to follow proper notification guidelines
if you decide that spot treatments are needed. Under the new pyrethroid
labeling, you <u>are</u> allowed to treat </span><span style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">the underside of eaves, or the soffit, but
again, because this would not be considered a crack-and-crevice treatment,
notification would be required. </span><span style="font-family: Helvetica;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">If large numbers of kudzu bugs make
it indoors, simply vacuum them up. The use of pesticides indoors is not
warranted and will be largely ineffective in this case.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Patty Alderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13886225438789586220noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2364258270935174030.post-80772177962473808662012-08-16T08:06:00.002-07:002012-10-11T09:59:25.808-07:00West Nile Virus in NC, by Mike Waldvogel<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Many of you probably saw or read reports about increased incidences of West Nile Virus across the U.S. with the notable exception of a few states, including North Carolina. However, Wayne County has reported a death attributed to West Nile Virus. At this point, there are only a few details being provided about the person which is to be expected due to health records privacy laws. However, the announcement from the Wayne County Health Director’s office (as reported by the Goldsboro News-Argus) described the victim as “elderly."</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Only about 1% of people who become infected develop severe illness, and many people may not become sick at all. In cases of people who do develop symptoms (which takes 3-14 days), many of them may not attribute it to the virus until it becomes severe. Among people that develop severe illness (i.e., excluding those individuals who exhibit minimal or no symptoms), the mortality rate ranges from about 3% to 15%, with the rate being highest among the elderly (as likely the case mentioned above).</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">West Nile Virus occurs far less frequently in people in North Carolina as compared to other nearby states and it is far less frequent here than other mosquito-borne diseases such as Eastern Equine Encephalitis (EEE) and LaCrosse Encephalitis (LAC). EEE is more common in eastern NC while LAC is found primarily in western NC. Birds are the “amplifying hosts” for the virus, which basically means that infected mosquitoes transmit the virus to birds which are in turn bitten by other mosquitoes which acquire the virus and spread it to even more<br />birds. Some mosquitoes species feed primarily on birds but the species that will readily feed on both birds and mammals are the ones that pose the risk of spreading the disease to people. The mosquito species that transmit West Nile Virus tend to breed in wastewater<br />collection areas and stagnating catch-basins. You can also find them breeding where water collects after storms and begins to stagnate with the abundant organic matter present. So, one obvious approach for residents is to make sure that they clear stagnating water sources on their property. It doesn’t matter if this water is on a 1000 acre farm or on a 0.1 acre home lot; water that collects and stagnates has the potential to become a mosquito breeding site. Across most of North Carolina, the Asian tiger mosquito remains our most common pest species and it will exploit similar pools of stagnating water on the ground and in man-made objects.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As I mentioned a few weeks ago, substantial rainfall (as we have seen recently in many areas) is inevitably going to lead to a rise in mosquito activity and the first response by individuals should focus on disrupting those breeding pools rather than worrying about what to spray in their yard. These were some of the particular points I mentioned previously, but they're worth noting again:</span></div>
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<ul>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Bird baths - simply flush them out with a garden hose and you flush </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">out the mosquito larvae in the process. Plus, the birds will </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">appreciate the fresh water. For horse owners with water troughs near </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">stalls or out in pastures, one option is to use a product such as </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">"Mosquito Dunks" which contain the bacteria <i>Bacillus thuringiensis </i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>israelensis</i>, which kills the mosquito larvae (not the adults). </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Although you can use them in outdoor water bowls for pets, it is far </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">simpler (and better for your animals) if you “tip and toss” the water </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">from the bowl and replenish it with fresh water *daily*.</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Old cans, tires, etc. - empty them and get rid of them (legally, don't </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">simply toss them along the highway to become someone else’s problem).</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Outdoor flower pots - empty the water from the dishes/trays </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">underneath them. Your plants have plenty of water without the </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">overflow. This also helps reduce fungus gnat problems in the plant </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">soil.</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Remove all of that built-up debris from your gutters. The water and </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">decaying material attract mosquitoes.</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Rain barrels – if you collect water from your gutters or some other </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">system, make sure the barrel is screened to keep out debris and </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">mosquitoes.</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tarps that cover your boat, grill, firewood, etc. also collect p</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">ockets of water that can remain for 1-2 weeks.</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The bed of that '57 Ford pickup that you've been “restoring” for the </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">last 25 years can collect water particularly if the tailgate faces </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">uphill in your yard.</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Kids' pools - if they're not being used by kids, they're probably </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">being used by the mosquitoes (and maybe some toads) – empty them. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The same thing applies to pools (in ground or above ground) that </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">aren't maintained (e.g., pools on abandoned or foreclosed properties).</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Drainage ditches - they're meant to collect storm water temporarily. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Keep them free of debris so that water flows and has time to filter </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">into the soil.</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Decorative fish ponds can be a source of mosquitoes if they contain </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">a lot of vegetation that provides hiding places for the mosquito </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">larvae. “Mosquito Dunks” are an option here.</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tree holes - when limbs fall off trees, the remaining hole in the </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">trunk can collect water. Flush that out or put a small piece of a </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">mosquito dunk into it.</span></li>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Another critical matter – personal protection. The majority of mosquito-borne disease incidences, whether they’re human or equine, are due to a lack of personal protection. Horse owners need to spend the time and money to get their horses vaccinated against EEE. For<br />us two-legged creatures, we simply need to take precautions when we’re outdoors for work or recreation. If it’s too uncomfortable to wear long-sleeved shirts and long pants, then cover all *exposed* areas of the skin with an insect repellent (see <a href="http://insects.ncsu.edu/Urban/repellents.htm">http://insects.ncsu.edu/Urban/repellents.htm</a>). </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A few other important points about using repellents:</span></div>
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<li>Do not put repellent on skin that will be covered by clothing.</li>
<li>Children spend a lot of time outdoors, particularly when school is not in session. The greater the amount of time spent outdoors can increase the likelihood of getting bitten by a mosquito (and potentially a higher likelihood of being bitten by an infected mosquito). Before applying a repellent to a child, read the label carefully to make sure that it contains concentration appropriate for use on children.</li>
<li>When using repellents on children - you should apply the product to your hands and then rub it on their arms, legs, neck, etc. If you allow your child to rub repellent on their arms and legs, they need to wash their hands immediately afterwards because they will inevitably forget and either rub their eyes or stick their fingers in their mouths.</li>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">One other point that I mentioned a few weeks ago - mosquitoes have no concept of property lines. They are simply out there looking for a blood meal whether it's you or your neighbor. Mosquito "control" may be a matter of spraying chemicals to reduce the population below<br />nuisance levels. On the other hand, mosquito *management* is what is often needed. It is a long-term proactive project that requires a community effort in order to succeed.<br /><br />We have information on mosquito control on the web at<br /><a href="http://insects.ncsu.edu/Urban/mosquito.htm">http://insects.ncsu.edu/Urban/mosquito.htm</a>.</span></div>
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Patty Alderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13886225438789586220noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2364258270935174030.post-67454122460951385592012-04-24T09:02:00.002-07:002012-04-24T09:10:08.123-07:00Those Darn Ants!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">Foraging Argentine ants </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">(Photo: Alex Wild).</span></td></tr>
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How many times have you been called to the teachers’ lounge, a classroom, or bathroom because someone has seen ants in and around a sink or other water source? Let's run through what might be a typical scenario:<br />
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Your look around and rule out the presence of a leak or other plumbing issue. You determine that the ants are just after whatever water is in the sink. You spend some timing looking around, but because the ants haven’t established a foraging trail, you can’t figure out how they are getting in. <br />
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So you do what you can in this situation – perhaps you make a crack-and-crevice application into any obvious cracks or gaps in an effort to keep the ants out. Maybe you even seal up a couple of gaps with some caulk or other sealant. You go through your regular spiel about making sure that food is stored properly, garbage is taken out regularly, excess water is wiped up, etc. And you’re done.<br />
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Until you get another call about ants in the same area – just a couple of days later! So, you go back, look around again – this time taking even a little more time to check for potential entry points.You know that for optimal results, you really need to find and treat the source (i.e., the nest). So you go outside and look for a nearby ant nest but find nothing. You watch the ants closely, but never see where they are coming from or going to. So you make another, more thorough crack-and-crevice application into the gaps in the area. You treat a few extra openings that you somehow missed before. And you’re done.<br />
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You wish! You get yet another call about ants in the same area. So, what can you do now? What is going on?<br />
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Well, I can tell you that I’ve had this exact same problem occur at my house – in my kitchen around the sink. And I tried everything that I wrote about above. I checked outside for a nearby nest but found nothing. Since I could find no nest, I realized that my best bet would be to attempt to keep the ants out of my house. So I treated all the obvious gaps with a crack-and-crevice insecticidal spray. I sealed up whatever openings I could see. Yet, I kept getting ants around my kitchen sink. I watched the ants carefully to try and determine exactly where they were getting in. But I could find nothing, because while there were several ants around the sink, there was never a real distinct foraging trail.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">Ants recruited and feeding on jelly </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">(Photo: Patty Alder).</span></td></tr>
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Then it hit me: I realized that in order to find the entry point(s), I needed a distinct foraging trail. So I placed a very small dab of apple jelly on a piece of cardboard, placed it on the counter near the ants…. and waited. It didn’t take long – maybe 20 minutes or so – for more ants to show up (see photo at right).<br />
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Pretty soon, I had myself a pretty distinct trail of ants going from my kitchen sink to…. a small opening where the caulk had come out in an area on the counter right behind my sink. (see photos below). A small opening that I had overlooked! So I treated that opening with a crack-and-crevice spray and guess what? No more ants!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">Foraging trail can be followed from </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">the jelly down </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">the </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">window </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">frame (Photo: Patty Alder).</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">Ants were coming in through a gap in the counter </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">behind </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">the sink (Photo: Patty Alder).</span></td></tr>
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If you have this issue with ants, set out a bit of jelly on an index card in a couple of areas where you are seeing the ant activity. If the ants are in a classroom, make sure you explain to the teacher that he/she needs to keep the children away from the area so as not to interfere with the ants’ activity. Check back in about 30 minutes for a trail of foraging ants and carefully follow the ants to see if you can determine how they are gaining entry into the area. If jelly does not seem to attract the ants, you could try a small piece of cheese or a potato chip (I wouldn’t use peanut butter in schools because of all the issues with allergies). Once you figure out where the ants are coming in, you can treat that opening with a crack-and-crevice application. You may even want to seal up the opening after it has been treated.</div>
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Good luck and happy ant hunting!<br />
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<br />Patty Alderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13886225438789586220noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2364258270935174030.post-24182614163914961912012-04-17T08:48:00.000-07:002012-04-17T08:48:13.382-07:00Bed Bugs and Book Bags<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_svRZQsOzrO8Pnb-Bw_mlPwNUTSXtdENpEXUMCejlqvcKd9eAVLbHK-GLMyxerj0Xcr_im9oVQVGPkNPag0d_dEhwMrzlSGmr1XY3aUHmZHUDMxaslcl08xon-FVd9lXljkI91YKwiKL5/s1600/6a013486861d6a970c0168e9f33dc5970c-120wi.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_svRZQsOzrO8Pnb-Bw_mlPwNUTSXtdENpEXUMCejlqvcKd9eAVLbHK-GLMyxerj0Xcr_im9oVQVGPkNPag0d_dEhwMrzlSGmr1XY3aUHmZHUDMxaslcl08xon-FVd9lXljkI91YKwiKL5/s200/6a013486861d6a970c0168e9f33dc5970c-120wi.png" width="153" /></a></div>The University of Florida teamed up with the Jacksonville Bed Bug Task Force to create the “Bed Bugs and Book Bags” curriculum for grades 3-5 (the kids that seem to bring the most bed bugs to school).<br />
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The "Bed Bugs and Book Bags" curriculum follows learning standards for science and health educators, but many housing authorities have on-site after school programs that could use the activities. Any organization that works with kids should know about these lessons. <br />
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Check out the curriculum at <a href="http://entnemdept.ufl.edu/bug_club/Bed_bugs.html">http://entnemdept.ufl.edu/bug_club/Bed_bugs.html</a>. <br />
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After watching a presentation (meant to give teachers the facts they need to teach their students) and passing a quick quiz, the lessons can be downloaded. If you’re already a bed bug pro, you can fast forward through the presentation and should still pass the test with flying colors.Patty Alderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13886225438789586220noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2364258270935174030.post-70293524620772098192012-03-13T08:49:00.002-07:002012-03-13T08:49:53.784-07:00Warmer Weather Bringing Out Some Pests, by Mike Waldvogel<b>Ground-nesting bees.</b> Warm temperatures and the recent rains are promoting a burst of insect activity. We received a call a couple of weeks ago from a school system about "swarms" of bees showing up on the school grounds. These are most likely the solitary “digger” bees, particularly andrenid bees. Colletid bees will follow suit within a few weeks. People often mistake andrenid bees for honey bees because they are similar in appearance, although typically have blackish abdomens and light-yellow hairs.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRVBhVz8SfZ07py3DrS_TPhys36wZDeMZL0atZJj3cGiOp6lN4t9ytiOi6upOtm8seIAU_fxFt9kQo3-EeDu3hHWXBMIC003vV0V4M-RZ5z5htQb5AwJDxOKsGWGOzTgeIEMaOvS94DVQ/s1600/U0K0E0K050TQFKBRX0TQ3KBRG03Q90YR7QJRU0S00QORP000KQWRI0JQ50JQRQOQ50NRZQURLQ.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRVBhVz8SfZ07py3DrS_TPhys36wZDeMZL0atZJj3cGiOp6lN4t9ytiOi6upOtm8seIAU_fxFt9kQo3-EeDu3hHWXBMIC003vV0V4M-RZ5z5htQb5AwJDxOKsGWGOzTgeIEMaOvS94DVQ/s320/U0K0E0K050TQFKBRX0TQ3KBRG03Q90YR7QJRU0S00QORP000KQWRI0JQ50JQRQOQ50NRZQURLQ.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="252" /></a></div></td></tr>
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</tbody></table><div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">The bees begin foraging for food and seeking out new nesting sites. This activity will continue for the next 2 months or so depending on the area of the state and the species of bee. The bees dig a vertical tunnel in the soil, particularly in areas where the soil drains well and vegetation may be sparse. They make small side chambers off the main tunnel and provision them with pollen for their offspring. These bees are "solitary" which means there is no true colony which is supported by worker bees. Mating takes place at this time, so a lot of the "swarming" is just males and females trying to pair up. The bees frequently make small mounds in the soil, and small clusters of these nests may be seen together, but each mound is all made by an individual female bee. At one school in Raleigh, we’ve had reports of 5 or more nests in just 1 square foot of lawn. The damage can be unsightly with large numbers of mounds in the turf, but it is mostly a cosmetic issue. The bigger problem is usually that people walking by panic because they assume that these are swarms of honey bees (or a similar bee) that will likely attack them if they venture too close to "the nest." Turf-nesting bees <i>can</i> sting but<i> rarely</i> do, so unless you accidentally step or sit on one (which kids might do while playing), they are not likely to sting. Since they are not "social," there is not a large number of worker bees trying to protect a nest. So, there is no "mass attack" as might occasionally occur during a close encounter of the yellowjacket kind (and it's still early in the year for us to see any yellowjacket colonies out there).</div><div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><br />
</div></div><div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">These ground-nesting bees are beneficial and should be left alone if possible. Any pesticide that you typically use outdoors for such sites could be applied, but success is likely to be marginal because of the duration of activity. The bees often try to dig into the sand in play areas at schools and childcare facilities, which is a concern particularly for parents and teachers with children that are severely allergic to bee stings. Any chemical treatment in sandy play areas is strongly discouraged because of the contact kids have with the soil (and which they might get in their mouths as well). If the bees try to nest in a sandbox, a simple solution is to cover it during the day but it will take a few weeks for you to deter most of the bees that show up over time. While this isn't always successful, you could saturate the area with soapy water which will bring the bees out and probably kill some in the process since soap does work as an insecticide. Since the bees prefer well-drained areas, water-staturated soils will deter the bees but again we're looking at activity that can take place over a few weeks.</div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><br />
</div></div><div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">Information, including pictures, of these bees and the "damage" that they cause can be found at:</div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><br />
</div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><a href="http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/Insects/O&T/lawn/note100/note100.html">http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/Insects/O&T/lawn/note100/note100.html</a></div></div></div><div></div>Patty Alderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13886225438789586220noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2364258270935174030.post-48114489900394879472012-02-29T08:50:00.002-08:002012-02-29T08:52:37.740-08:00Termite Swarms in School Buildings<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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</tbody></table>It’s that time of year again – time for termite swarmers to start showing up. You may have already experienced some swarms in some of your buildings. Eastern subterranean termites generally swarm from late-February to May. Swarming usually occurs during the day, particularly on warm days following rain. Swarmers found outdoors near tree stumps, landscape timbers, etc., are not an indication that a structure is infested, but they serve as a reminder that termites live around us. When swarming occurs indoors, it usually means that there is an infestation somewhere in the building. <br />
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If you have indoor swarmers, just suck them up in a vacuum cleaner. Place the vacuum bag inside a plastic bag and seal it before disposing of it. There is no real need to spray them, and spraying would require notification. There is also no need to rush treating the building. This situation would not be considered an emergency. Plan the treatment for a teacher workday where that part of the building is or can be vacated. The treatment will vary depending on where the termites were found swarming. A spot treatment may be all that is needed and will not be as expensive as a full treatment of the structure.Patty Alderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13886225438789586220noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2364258270935174030.post-33334558832678467532012-02-23T07:56:00.000-08:002012-02-23T07:56:14.805-08:00EPA Centralizes Healthy Child Care Training and Curriculum ResourcesChild care providers have a lot to do; pest management can be just another thing on an already full plate. To help ease the burden, US EPA launched a <a href="http://epa.gov/childcare/">resource directory</a> for child care providers. It includes fact sheets, trainings, and assessment tools on asthma, chemical hazards, green cleaning and IPM. Resource directory materials can be used as handouts at meetings, placed in staff lounges, transmitted electronically in newsletters or sent home with students for parents to use. <br />
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The directory links to numerous sources including <a href="http://extension.psu.edu/ipm/childcare/guidlines-for-ipm-for-pest-management-contracts-in-childcare-centers-1">Guidelines for IPM for Pest Management Contracts in Childcare Centers</a> from Penn State University which includes <a href="http://extension.psu.edu/ipm/childcare/guidlines-for-ipm-for-pest-management-contracts-in-childcare-centers-1/set-up-your-ipm-program-in-eight-steps/view">Set Up Your IPM Program in Eight Steps</a> and <a href="http://extension.psu.edu/ipm/childcare/guidlines-for-ipm-for-pest-management-contracts-in-childcare-centers-1/how-do-i-know-im-receiving-ipm-services/view">How Do I Know I'm Receiving IPM Services?</a> Another fact sheet, <a href="http://www.epa.gov/oppfead1/Publications/pest-impact-hsstaff.pdf">Pesticides and Their Impact on Children: Key Facts and Talking Points,</a> explains the dangers of pesticide poisoning in young children and gives a brief step-by-step IPM tutorial.Patty Alderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13886225438789586220noreply@blogger.com0